Pol Couronne, Oenothèque Millésime, 2008

Grapes

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

Vintage report

The 2008 vintage in Champagne arrived as something of a surprise package after a growing season that kept producers guessing until the very end. A cool, wet summer had many fearing the worst, but September delivered the kind of weather that makes vignerons believe in providence again. The late-season sunshine and dry conditions allowed for a patient harvest that rewarded those who waited, producing grapes with the sort of pristine acidity that Champagne practically demands.

What emerged from this roller-coaster year was a vintage of remarkable freshness and tension, particularly from Chardonnay, which seemed to thrive in the challenging conditions. The wines show a mineral backbone that we find absolutely thrilling, with a purity of fruit that makes them feel almost weightless on the palate. These bottles are drinking superbly now, having developed the toasty, honeyed depth that comes with proper bottle age, yet they retain enough verve to cellar happily until 2035. We think 2008 represents one of those vintages that reminds you why Champagne can be so utterly compelling when everything clicks.