Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2023
Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2023
- Red Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.5%
- Sangiovese Grosso
Patrizia Cencioni's 2023 Brunello has impressive purity, combining the concentration of ripe fruit with the freshness and structure that define the estate's traditional style.
The nose is fragrant and complex, offering aromas of black cherry, wild raspberry and violet, alongside notes of dried thyme, cedar, tobacco and sweet spice. The palate is poised and finely structured, with silky tannins supporting layers of red and dark berry fruit, balanced by vibrant acidity and a subtle mineral edge that carries through to a long, savoury finish. Refined rather than powerful, it is a classic expression of Brunello that showcases both the vintage and the character of Montalcino.
A superb partner for bistecca alla Fiorentina, slow-braised beef, roast venison or aged Parmigiano Reggiano, this is a beautifully composed Brunello that will shine alongside hearty, traditional Italian dishes.
- ❖ ABV: 13.5%
Grapes
Sangiovese Grosso
Vintage report
The 2023 vintage in Tuscany delivered precisely what nobody expected after a challenging start. Spring brought excessive rainfall that had growers fretting about disease pressure, whilst a scorching July tested even the most experienced vignerons. Yet August's return to more moderate temperatures, combined with crucial diurnal temperature swings, allowed the vines to regain their composure just when it mattered most. The harvest stretched longer than usual, with producers able to pick at optimal ripeness rather than racing against the clock.
What emerged from the cellars shows Tuscany's remarkable ability to transform adversity into opportunity. The Sangiovese displays a freshness we haven't seen in recent warm years, with that characteristic cherry brightness sitting beautifully alongside more structured tannins. Super Tuscans from the coast fared particularly well, where maritime influences helped moderate the summer extremes. These aren't blockbuster wines built for decades of cellaring, but rather Tuscan reds with an approachable charm that makes them dangerously drinkable now whilst still having the backbone to reward five to eight years of patience.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep ruby with a garnet rim, clear and vivid in the glass.
NoseFragrant and lifted, with black cherry, wild raspberry and violet at the fore. Behind them come cedar, dried thyme, tobacco and a hint of sweet spice that adds complexity without weight.
PalatePoised and finely structured, with silky tannins and layers of red and dark berry fruit kept honest by vibrant acidity. There is a subtle mineral quality running through the mid-palate that keeps everything taut and focused.
FinishLong, savoury and mineral, with the fruit receding to leave a clean, persistent edge.
Overall impressionRefined rather than powerful — a Brunello that earns your attention through precision, not volume.
Food Pairings
In Montalcino and the wider Sienese countryside, Brunello is the wine of celebration and Sunday lunch in equal measure. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the classic match — thick-cut Chianina beef, grilled over wood, barely seasoned, the char on the outside doing the talking. Slow-braised wild boar with pappardelle is another local staple that the wine handles with ease, the acidity cutting through the richness of the ragu. Roast venison or cinghiale in umido are equally at home. And at the end of the meal, a wedge of aged Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino di Pienza alongside the last glass is not to be missed.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 17 to 18 degrees Celsius — any warmer and the alcohol begins to dominate; any cooler and the aromatics close up. Decanting is not optional here: give it at least 90 minutes, ideally two hours, to allow the tannins to soften and the nose to fully open. A large-bowled Burgundy-style glass works well, giving the wine enough room to breathe and the aromatics enough space to develop.
The Cencioni vineyards sit in the southern part of Montalcino, where the soils are a mix of galestro (schist-like limestone and clay) and alberese (compact clay-limestone), giving the wines both structure and a distinct mineral freshness. Altitude ranges between 350 and 450 metres, which tempers the warmth of the southern exposure and preserves the acidity that defines this estate's style. The combination of warm days and cool nights during ripening is key to the aromatic lift and freshness the wines consistently show.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most prestigious DOCGs, built entirely on Sangiovese Grosso — locally called Brunello — grown within the commune of Montalcino in southern Tuscany. The rules are strict: a minimum of five years' ageing before release (six for Riserva), with at least two years in oak and four months in bottle. The result is a wine that arrives ready to age rather than ready to drink, which is either the point or an inconvenience depending on your patience. Compared to Chianti Classico, Brunello is slower, deeper, and more demanding — closer in spirit to Barolo than to anything in Chianti.
The 2023 vintage in Tuscany delivered precisely what nobody expected after a challenging start. Spring brought excessive rainfall that had growers fretting about disease pressure, whilst a scorching July tested even the most experienced vignerons. Yet August's return to more moderate temperatures, combined with crucial diurnal temperature swings, allowed the vines to regain their composure just when it mattered most. The harvest stretched longer than usual, with producers able to pick at optimal ripeness rather than racing against the clock.
What emerged from the cellars shows Tuscany's remarkable ability to transform adversity into opportunity. The Sangiovese displays a freshness we haven't seen in recent warm years, with that characteristic cherry brightness sitting beautifully alongside more structured tannins. Super Tuscans from the coast fared particularly well, where maritime influences helped moderate the summer extremes. These aren't blockbuster wines built for decades of cellaring, but rather Tuscan reds with an approachable charm that makes them dangerously drinkable now whilst still having the backbone to reward five to eight years of patience.
FAQs
What does this Brunello taste like?
It leads with black cherry, wild raspberry and violet, then builds into cedar, dried thyme and tobacco. The palate is structured and mineral rather than rich, with silky tannins and a long savoury finish. Think precision over power.
When is the best time to drink it?
We would not open it before 2029. The wine has real structure that needs time to knit together. The sweet spot is likely 2030 to 2040, with good bottles drinking well until 2045.
What food should I serve with it?
Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the obvious answer — the classic Tuscan pairing for a reason. Beyond that, slow-braised beef, roast venison, wild boar ragu with pappardelle, or aged Parmigiano Reggiano all work extremely well.
Should I decant it?
Yes, and generously. Give it at least 90 minutes to two hours before serving. This opens up the aromatics and softens the tannins considerably. A large-bowled glass will help too.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. This is exactly the kind of Brunello built for the cellar — structured, precise, and with enough acidity and mineral backbone to age gracefully for two decades from vintage. Buy a case and open bottles at intervals to track how it develops.
How does Patrizia Cencioni's style differ from other Brunello producers?
Cencioni sits firmly in the traditional camp: long macerations, large old oak casks, no shortcuts. The wines are about finesse and structure rather than immediate fruit appeal. If you want something approachable on release, look elsewhere. If you want Brunello with real longevity and a sense of place, this is the kind of producer worth seeking out.
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