Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2017
Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2017
- Red Still
- 75.0cl
- 14.5%
- Sangiovese Grosso
Patrizia Cencioni is one of Montalcino's quieter heroes — a small, family-run estate in the southern reaches of the zone, farming with care and bottling without compromise. Her Brunello is the real thing: uncompromising Sangiovese Grosso from vineyards that deliver concentration without losing the variety's essential tension and savagery. The 2017 vintage was warm and dry across Tuscany, and the wines that came through it best are those from producers who didn't let the heat seduce them into overripeness. Cencioni's version holds its nerve.
There's dark cherry, dried roses, and that characteristic iron-and-earth quality that makes great Brunello feel like it was dug from the hillside as much as grown on it. Decant generously, pair with something that can take the weight, and let it remind you why Montalcino matters.
- ❖ ABV: 14.5%
Grapes
Sangiovese Grosso
Vintage report
The 2017 growing season in Tuscany delivered exactly what winemakers hope for but rarely receive: steady temperatures, well-timed rainfall, and a long, unhurried ripening period that stretched into October. Spring arrived without drama, summer stayed mercifully cool compared to recent scorching years, and crucially, September brought just enough rain to refresh the vines before harvest began. It was the sort of vintage that reminded everyone why Tuscany became famous in the first place, allowing each variety to ripen at its own pace rather than racing against heat stress.
What emerged from the cellars shows remarkable consistency across the region. Sangiovese developed its characteristic cherry brightness while maintaining proper structure, Cabernet Sauvignon ripened fully without jammy excess, and even the international varieties that sometimes struggle here found their footing. The wines show immediate charm but carry enough backbone to develop gracefully, making 2017 one of those rare vintages that works for both early drinking and patient collectors. Most are singing beautifully now and should continue until 2030, though the finest examples will reward those who wait even longer.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep garnet with a brick-edged rim that hints at the vintage's warmth, still opaque at the core.
NoseDark cherry, dried violet, and a streak of iron that anchors the fruit without smothering it. With air, there's leather, dried herbs, and a faint tobacco leaf quality that signals the wine's seriousness. It opens slowly — give it time.
PalateThe 2017 ripeness is there in the weight and the density of fruit, but the tannins are very much alive — grainy, structured, and demanding. There's a core of dark cherry and plum, with an earthy, mineral quality running through the mid-palate that stops the wine feeling heavy. The acidity is the backbone holding everything upright.
FinishLong, dry, and resolute, with iron, dried rose petal, and a lasting grip that reminds you this wine still has a lot of living to do.
Overall impressionA structured, honest Brunello from a warm vintage — the kind of wine that punishes impatience and repays those who wait.
Food Pairings
In Montalcino and the wider Sienese countryside, Brunello is the natural companion to the region's robust, slow-cooked meat dishes — wild boar braised with juniper and red wine, or the local pici all'aglione, thick hand-rolled pasta with a fierce garlic and tomato sauce. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the classic pairing further north, and it works just as well here: the wine's tannins need protein and fat to show their best. Aged Pecorino di Pienza, the pungent sheep's milk cheese from just across the valley, is a brilliant match for an older bottle. For a more celebratory occasion, a slow-roasted leg of Chianina beef, the prized local breed, is the pairing Brunello was essentially invented for.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 17-18°C — too warm and the tannins become soupy; too cold and they turn harsh. Decant for at least two hours if drinking now, or ideally three: this wine needs significant air to open up and show what it's made of. A large Burgundy-style bowl allows the aromatics to gather and the wine to breathe without being overwhelmed by the glass. Don't rush it — the first pour will tell you very little.
The Cencioni vineyards sit in the southern sector of Montalcino, where the soils are rich in galestro — a crumbly, schist-like limestone that drains freely and forces the vine to dig deep. The elevation moderates what can be a warm, south-facing exposure, helping the fruit retain the acidity and structure that defines serious Brunello. The 2017 growing season brought an early, dry summer that concentrated the fruit significantly, making careful canopy management essential to preserve freshness.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most rigorous appellations: 100% Sangiovese Grosso (locally called Brunello), aged for a minimum of five years before release — including at least two in oak and four months in bottle. The result is always a wine built for the long term. Montalcino sits south of Siena in Tuscany, warmer and drier than Chianti Classico to the north, which gives the wines a fuller body and deeper colour, though the best retain the variety's characteristic acidity and grip. The appellation is divided informally between the cooler, more mineral northern slopes and the warmer, richer south — though producer philosophy matters as much as geography.
The 2017 growing season in Tuscany delivered exactly what winemakers hope for but rarely receive: steady temperatures, well-timed rainfall, and a long, unhurried ripening period that stretched into October. Spring arrived without drama, summer stayed mercifully cool compared to recent scorching years, and crucially, September brought just enough rain to refresh the vines before harvest began. It was the sort of vintage that reminded everyone why Tuscany became famous in the first place, allowing each variety to ripen at its own pace rather than racing against heat stress.
What emerged from the cellars shows remarkable consistency across the region. Sangiovese developed its characteristic cherry brightness while maintaining proper structure, Cabernet Sauvignon ripened fully without jammy excess, and even the international varieties that sometimes struggle here found their footing. The wines show immediate charm but carry enough backbone to develop gracefully, making 2017 one of those rare vintages that works for both early drinking and patient collectors. Most are singing beautifully now and should continue until 2030, though the finest examples will reward those who wait even longer.
FAQs
What does Cencioni's Brunello 2017 taste like?
Dark cherry, dried roses, iron, and leather, with a firm tannic structure and long, earthy finish. The 2017 vintage brings more richness than a cooler year, but this is still a wine defined by grip and precision rather than generosity.
Is this worth cellaring?
Absolutely, and arguably it demands it. Brunello is one of Italy's most age-worthy styles, and Cencioni's traditional approach means this wine is built for the long haul.
What food should I serve with this?
This wants something substantial: slow-braised wild boar, a bone-in rib of beef, or aged Pecorino. The tannins need protein and fat, and the wine's earthy character pairs naturally with rich, slow-cooked meat dishes from the Tuscan table.
How should I serve it?
At 17-18°C, decanted for at least two hours — ideally three. A wide-bowled Burgundy glass works well. Don't skimp on the decanting: this wine is still fairly closed and needs significant air to open up.
How does the 2017 vintage affect this wine?
2017 was a warm, dry year across Tuscany, which pushed ripeness and concentration. At Cencioni, that translates to a slightly fuller, darker wine than a cooler vintage might produce, but the structure and acidity are intact. It's more immediately approachable than a 2016 or 2015 will be at the same age.
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