Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 'Clos Des Forêts Saint-Georges', Domaine de L'Arlot, 2017
Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 'Clos Des Forêts Saint-Georges', Domaine de L'Arlot, 2017
- Red Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.0%
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Pinot Noir
Domaine de L'Arlot's Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is the estate's calling card, a monopole premier cru sitting at the southern edge of Nuits-Saint-Georges where the wines trade the village's usual muscle for something more perfumed and precise. The 2017 is a vintage we find ourselves increasingly fond of: ripe without being weighty, generous without losing the savoury grip that makes Nuits-Saint-Georges Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Expect dark cherry, a touch of wild strawberry, and that characteristic iron-and-earth seam running underneath, all held together by tannins that feel more silk than sandpaper. It drinks well now with a bit of air, but there's no rush.
- ❖ ABV: 13.0%
Grapes
Pinot Noir
Vintage report
The 2017 vintage in Burgundy arrived after a series of weather curveballs that kept growers on their toes from spring through harvest. April frosts dealt a brutal blow across the Côte d'Or, slashing yields by up to 60% in some villages, whilst those who escaped relatively unscathed found themselves with healthier vines and more concentrated fruit. The summer that followed was warm and dry, ripening what remained on the vine beautifully, and harvest began early in late August under ideal conditions.
What emerged from this challenging year surprises us still: wines of remarkable purity and focus, where the reduced yields translated directly into intensity without heaviness. The Pinot Noirs show beautiful red fruit clarity with firm but approachable tannins, whilst the Chardonnays display precision and mineral backbone that speaks clearly of their terroir. We find the whites drinking beautifully now and will continue to reward patience over the next decade, whilst the reds are starting to show their considerable charm and should peak between now and 2030.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceMid-ruby with a garnet edge, showing its nine years with a touch of elegant fade.
NoseDark cherry and wild strawberry sit over a savoury, earthy base, with a faint whiff of game and crushed stone as the glass opens.
PalateSilky rather than sinewy, with ripe red fruit carried on fine tannins and a seam of iron-like minerality that keeps things honest.
FinishLong, savoury, and faintly saline, with the fruit receding to leave stone and spice behind.
Overall impressionA Nuits-Saint-Georges that trades grunt for grace, and all the more compelling for it.
Food Pairings
In Nuits-Saint-Georges, this would find its way onto the table alongside coq au vin or a simple roast guinea fowl, the wine's savoury edge matching the dish's richness without overwhelming it. Jambon persillé, that cold parsleyed ham terrine found in every Burgundian charcuterie, is a classic local match for the wine's earthy, gamey undertones. A wedge of Époisses, washed-rind and pungent, would also do nicely, though we'd reach for something slightly firmer like a well-aged Comté if the cheese board threatens to steal the show.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 15-16°C, cooler than you'd think, to keep the fruit fresh and the earthy notes in check. A short decant of 20-30 minutes will help it open without stripping away the subtler, more savoury layers that make it interesting. A Burgundy glass with a generous bowl is essential here, giving the wine room to breathe and the drinker room to appreciate it.
The Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges sits on shallow, stony limestone soils at the southern end of Nuits-Saint-Georges, close to the border with Premeaux-Prissey, where the bedrock sits closer to the surface than in many of the commune's other climats. This thinner topsoil and higher limestone content tend to produce wines with more lift and perfume than the denser, iron-rich soils found further north in the appellation, giving this particular clos its reputation for elegance over brawn. The enclosed, walled nature of the vineyard also offers some protection from wind, aiding even ripening across the parcel.
Nuits-Saint-Georges is the engine room of the Côte de Nuits, a commune of serious, often sinewy reds that rarely get the glamour of neighbouring Vosne-Romanée or Chambolle-Musigny despite producing some of Burgundy's most age-worthy wines. There is no grand cru here, which makes the premier crus, of which Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is one, the pinnacle of the appellation. Wines from the southern end of the commune, where this clos lies, tend to show more finesse and floral lift than those from the north, which lean towards power and structure.
The 2017 vintage in Burgundy arrived after a series of weather curveballs that kept growers on their toes from spring through harvest. April frosts dealt a brutal blow across the Côte d'Or, slashing yields by up to 60% in some villages, whilst those who escaped relatively unscathed found themselves with healthier vines and more concentrated fruit. The summer that followed was warm and dry, ripening what remained on the vine beautifully, and harvest began early in late August under ideal conditions.
What emerged from this challenging year surprises us still: wines of remarkable purity and focus, where the reduced yields translated directly into intensity without heaviness. The Pinot Noirs show beautiful red fruit clarity with firm but approachable tannins, whilst the Chardonnays display precision and mineral backbone that speaks clearly of their terroir. We find the whites drinking beautifully now and will continue to reward patience over the next decade, whilst the reds are starting to show their considerable charm and should peak between now and 2030.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Dark cherry and wild strawberry fruit with a savoury, earthy undertow, fine tannins and a mineral finish typical of top-end Nuits-Saint-Georges.
When should I drink this wine?
It's drinking beautifully now and will continue to reward until 2040, with a likely plateau in the early 2030s.
What food should I pair it with?
Classic Burgundian fare works best: coq au vin, roast guinea fowl, jambon persillé, or a firm aged cheese like Comté.
How should I serve it?
Serve at 15-16°C with a short 20-30 minute decant, in a Burgundy glass with a wide bowl.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Yes, this is a monopole premier cru from a serious, biodynamically farmed estate, and the 2017 has the structure to develop gracefully for another decade or more.
What makes this vineyard special?
Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is a walled monopole with shallow limestone soils that give more perfume and finesse than wines from elsewhere in the appellation.
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