Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 'Clos de l'Arlot Blanc', Monopole, Domaine de L'Arlot, 2023
Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 'Clos de l'Arlot Blanc', Monopole, Domaine de L'Arlot, 2023
- White Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.0%
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Chardonnay
White Burgundy from Nuits-Saint-Georges is one of the region's best-kept secrets, and the Clos de l'Arlot is arguably the finest example of the lot. A walled monopole sitting entirely within Domaine de l'Arlot's hands, this old-vine Chardonnay parcel sits in the northern end of the village, where the soils shift cooler and the wines carry a stony, almost austere edge that feels closer to Comblanchien than to anything further south. The 2023 vintage brings ripeness without heaviness — a golden year tempered here by altitude and discipline.
We find it precise and linear right now, the fruit tucked behind a layer of chalky mineral grip that tells you this needs a year or two more in the rack. White peach, almond skin, and warm beeswax on the nose; the palate is taut, long, and saline-driven with real length.
- ❖ ABV: 13.0%
Grapes
Chardonnay
Vintage report
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with a faint green rim, bright and clear in the glass.
NoseWhite peach and ripe pear give way quickly to something cooler and more stony — crushed limestone, almond skin, and a suggestion of warm beeswax. There is a precision to the aromatics that signals real tension underneath.
PalateLinear and taut from the first sip, with the fruit sitting in the background while a saline, chalky grip drives the mid-palate. Good weight without anything approaching heaviness, and the acidity is fresh and well-integrated for a 2023.
FinishLong and mineral, with a flinty persistence that lingers well beyond what the youth of the vintage might suggest.
Overall impressionA white Burgundy that is asking for patience, and will reward it handsomely.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, a wine like this would almost certainly find itself opposite a quenelle de brochet with a beurre blanc — the classic pike dumpling that the region does better than anyone. Poulet à la crème, another local obsession, works superbly too, the wine's acidity cutting through the richness without flinching. Further afield but entirely in the spirit of the thing, a whole roasted turbot or a plate of Saint-Marcellin at the right moment of ripeness would be exactly what we'd reach for. The mineral tension also makes it a fine companion to gently dressed shellfish — langoustines with a little lemon and nothing more.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 12 to 13°C — cold enough to preserve freshness, warm enough to let the mineral complexity open up. No need to decant, but do give it 20 minutes in the glass before you make any judgements; it takes time to find its voice. A wide-bowled Burgundy glass will help enormously, giving the wine room to breathe and gather itself.
The Clos de l'Arlot blanc parcel sits on thin, stony soils over Bajocian limestone and marl at the northern edge of the Nuits-Saint-Georges commune, where the slope flattens slightly and cool air from the plain has a tempering effect on ripening. The limestone bedrock gives the wines their signature mineral tension — that saline, almost flinty quality that sets this blanc apart from richer, more southerly Côte de Nuits whites. Old vines deepen concentration while keeping yields naturally in check, which is half the reason the wine carries such focus.
Nuits-Saint-Georges is the southernmost major commune of the Côte de Nuits and unusual in having no Grand Crus — a quirk of geography and politics that has, if anything, made its Premiers Crus all the more interesting to follow. The appellation rules permit both red and white wines, though white production is rare and concentrated in a handful of plots near the village boundary with Prémeaux-Prissey. Compared to its neighbours Vosne-Romanée to the north and Beaune further south, Nuits has a firmer, more structured character — less opulent, more mineral-driven — which makes it a natural home for age-worthy whites of real personality.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
FAQs
What does the Clos de l'Arlot Blanc taste like?
Think precision over generosity. White peach, almond skin, and beeswax on the nose, then a taut, saline palate driven by limestone minerality. The 2023 is ripe but restrained, with a long, flinty finish that rewards patience.
When should I drink this wine?
We'd sit on it until at least 2027, ideally 2028 or 2029. It is slightly closed right now and will give a great deal more pleasure with a couple of years in the rack. At its best until around 2038.
Why is a white wine being made in Nuits-Saint-Georges?
White Nuits-Saint-Georges is genuinely rare — the village is almost entirely red wine country. The Clos de l'Arlot is one of a handful of plots where Chardonnay has been grown for generations, and its northern position within the village gives the wines a stony, mineral character quite unlike white Burgundy from further south. Think of it as one of the Côte de Nuits' best-kept secrets.
What food should I serve with this?
Locally in Burgundy you would drink this with quenelles de brochet in a beurre blanc or poulet à la crème. It is equally at home with a whole roasted turbot, langoustines, or a well-aged Saint-Marcellin cheese. The mineral tension means it can cut through rich sauces where a softer Chardonnay might get lost.
How should I serve it?
Serve at around 12 to 13°C in a proper wide-bowled Burgundy glass. No need to decant, but give it 20 minutes in the glass — it is a wine that takes its time to open up, and rushing it is a waste of what is inside the bottle.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Yes, without question. The Clos de l'Arlot Blanc has a strong track record for ageing gracefully, and the 2023 vintage's combination of ripeness and structural tension gives it real longevity. If you can leave it until the late 2020s you will be well rewarded.
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