Volnay Premier Cru 'Clos de la Chapelle' Monopole, Domaine Clos de la Chapelle, 2022
Volnay Premier Cru 'Clos de la Chapelle' Monopole, Domaine Clos de la Chapelle, 2022
- Red Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.5%
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Pinot Noir
Volnay has always been Burgundy's argument for elegance over power, and Clos de la Chapelle is one of its most quietly compelling voices. This is a monopole — the domaine owns the entire premier cru parcel outright — which gives the wines a singular, unhurried identity that blended-source Burgundy rarely achieves. The 2022 vintage brought generous, sun-drenched fruit tempered by the natural freshness that Volnay's higher-elevation sites preserve even in warm years, and the result is a Pinot Noir of real character: supple but structured, aromatic but precise.
Red cherry, dried violet, and a faint whisper of forest floor on the nose; on the palate, the tannins are fine-grained and the acidity holds everything in shape. It has enough depth to reward a few years in the cellar, but it won't punish you for opening a bottle in 2027 or 2028.
- ❖ ABV: 13.5%
Grapes
Pinot Noir
Vintage report
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceClear, medium ruby with a bright, translucent rim — classic cool-climate Pinot.
NoseRed cherry, dried rose petal, and violet upfront, with a cooler undercurrent of forest floor and damp limestone. The 2022 warmth lends a little ripe plum in the background, but it doesn't dominate.
PalateSupple and medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and a spine of fresh acidity that keeps everything lifted and focused. The fruit is generous without being heavy — there is a savoury, earthy pull through the mid-palate that marks this out as genuinely site-expressive rather than simply pretty.
FinishLong and mineral, with a faint iron-tinged grip that lingers pleasingly.
Overall impressionA textbook argument for why Volnay earns its reputation — elegant, precise, and with just enough structure to age gracefully.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, a Volnay premier cru like this would most naturally find itself opposite a roast poulet de Bresse — the region's great free-range chicken, ideally cooked with butter, tarragon, and a splash of the local white. Rabbit braised with mustard and cream is another classic pairing from the Burgundian table, the richness of the sauce matching the wine's weight without overwhelming its delicacy. Charcuterie from the region — jambon persillé, a pressed terrine of ham set in parsley jelly — works particularly well with the wine's earthy, savoury character. A slow-cooked veal blanquette or a simple dish of lentils with smoked lardons would also do very nicely here.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at around 15-16°C — cooler than you might think, as a degree or two of chill will sharpen the wine's natural freshness without muting its perfume. A brief decant of 20-30 minutes will help open the nose on a young bottle, though it doesn't need aggressive aeration. A tulip-shaped Burgundy glass with a generous bowl is the right tool here, giving the aromatics room to breathe while concentrating them toward the nose.
The Clos de la Chapelle sits on the mid-slope of Volnay, where limestone-rich soils with a clay and marl subsoil give the wines their characteristic combination of aromatic lift and structural grip. Volnay's soils are thinner and stonier than those of neighbouring Pommard, which is precisely why its Pinot Noir tends toward finesse rather than flesh. The elevation and east-facing aspect keep natural acidity intact even in warmer vintages, acting as a natural brake on over-ripeness. In 2022, this proved invaluable.
Volnay is one of the Côte de Beaune's most celebrated communes, producing exclusively red wine from Pinot Noir — a rarity for an appellation of its stature. Its premiers crus are numerous and well-defined, with Clos des Chênes, Champans, and Taillepieds among the most admired, though the monopole sites like Clos de la Chapelle carry their own distinct identity. Compared to Pommard to the south, Volnay is lighter in body and more perfumed; compared to Meursault to the north, it is the red counterpart to that village's white ambitions. The appellation rewards producers who resist the temptation to push for weight and instead let the site's natural delicacy speak.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Think red cherry, dried violet, and a cool, earthy mineral quality that is very much Volnay. The 2022 vintage adds a touch of ripe plum warmth, but the wine stays precise and structured rather than soft or heavy. Fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity keep it lifted from start to finish.
When is the best time to drink this?
We'd suggest starting in 2027 or 2028, once the primary fruit has had a little time to settle and integrate. It will drink well until around 2035-2038, with the sweet spot likely falling somewhere in the early 2030s when everything should be knitting together beautifully.
What food should I serve with it?
This is a natural match for roast chicken, rabbit with mustard and cream, or veal — classic Burgundian cooking that echoes the wine's earthy richness without overwhelming its elegance. Jambon persillé or a good terrine would work well as a starter pairing too.
Should I decant it?
A short decant of 20-30 minutes is worth doing on a young bottle — it opens the nose up and softens the wine slightly. You don't need to leave it for hours; Volnay isn't Barolo. Serve in a generous Burgundy-style glass at around 15-16°C.
What makes this a monopole, and why does it matter?
A monopole means the domaine owns the entire premier cru parcel outright, with no other producers farming the same site. That gives the wine a singularity of voice that is relatively rare in Burgundy, where most vineyards are fragmented across dozens of owners. You are tasting one grower's unmediated interpretation of one specific piece of ground — which is exactly what Burgundy at its best is supposed to be about.
Is this worth cellaring?
Yes, though it doesn't demand it. If you have the patience and the storage, putting this away until 2030 or so will be rewarded with greater complexity and a more seamless, integrated wine. If you want to open it in the next year or two, decant it and pair it well — it will still give you a great deal of pleasure.
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