Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, 2023
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, 2023
- Red Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.0%
- Pinot Noir
Clos de Vougeot is one of Burgundy's most storied names — 50 hectares enclosed by medieval walls, worked by dozens of different producers, and capable of everything from the mediocre to the magnificent. Drouhin-Laroze are firmly in the latter camp. Their parcel sits in the upper section of the clos, where the slope provides better drainage and the soils are thinner and stonier — exactly where you want to be. The 2023 vintage brought warmth and sunshine in abundance, and in careful hands it has produced wines of genuine ripeness without sacrificing the cool-edged clarity that separates great Burgundy from merely very good red wine.
This is a wine to sit with rather than race through. In its youth it offers dark cherry, dried rose, and a streak of iron-tinged earth that tells you immediately where it comes from. The tannins are fine but present, and there is real structural backbone beneath the elegance. A serious wine from a serious address — and one that reminds you why the clos still matters.
- ❖ ABV: 13.0%
Grapes
Pinot Noir
Vintage report
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep, translucent ruby with a violet-tinged rim and good clarity.
NoseDark cherry and dried rose lead, followed by a cool undercurrent of iron, wet stone, and a faint suggestion of whole-cluster spice. The 2023 warmth is there in the ripe fruit, but it doesn't crowd out the minerality that gives this wine its sense of place.
PalateSilky in texture but by no means soft — the tannins are fine-grained and present, providing a framework that feels built to last. Flavours of dark cherry, pomegranate, and dried herbs sit over a stony, iron-threaded base that anchors everything. The acidity is well-judged and keeps the richness of the vintage in check.
FinishLong, savoury, and persistently mineral, fading slowly with a dusting of dried rose and chalk.
Overall impressionA 2023 that wears its warmth gracefully — generous without being indulgent, and with the bones to age well.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, a wine like this would find its natural home alongside a classic coq au vin, where the braised chicken and lardons echo the wine's earthy depth. Boeuf bourguignon is the other obvious candidate — the same iron-rich, savoury character that the wine carries makes it a near-perfect match for the slow-braised beef. Locally, you might also see it served with époisses de Bourgogne, the region's famously pungent washed-rind cheese, where the wine's structure provides enough backbone to hold its own. A simple roast guinea fowl with thyme and butter would be our choice for something a little more understated.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-17°C — slightly cooler than you might think, which keeps the aromatics lifted and prevents the fruit from becoming jammy in the glass. At this stage, decanting for 45 minutes to an hour is worthwhile; the wine is still young and benefits from some air to open up. A large-bowled Burgundy glass — Riedel Vinum or Zalto Burgundy — will give the nose room to express itself properly.
The Clos de Vougeot grand cru spans a substantial 50-hectare slope in the Côte de Nuits, and position within it matters enormously. Drouhin-Laroze's parcel is in the upper third of the clos, where the gradient is steeper, drainage more effective, and the limestone bedrock closer to the surface. Soils here are thin, stony, and poor in organic matter — the kind of stress that forces vines to dig deep and concentrate what little they find. The result is wines with more tension and definition than those from the lower, flatter sections of the vineyard.
Clos de Vougeot is the largest single grand cru in the Côte de Nuits at around 50 hectares, and its reputation rests as much on history as on consistent quality. Originally cultivated by Cistercian monks and enclosed by walls in the fourteenth century, it produces exclusively red wine from Pinot Noir. The appellation's central challenge is its sheer size: the variation in soil depth, drainage, and exposure across the clos means that producer and parcel location matter as much as the grand cru designation itself. At its best — in the upper sections, in the right hands — it rivals Musigny and Chambertin for authority and age-worthiness.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Dark cherry, dried rose, and iron-threaded earth, with a fine-grained tannic structure and good persistence. The 2023 vintage brings real ripeness, but Drouhin-Laroze's upper-clos parcel keeps it precise rather than plush.
When should I drink this wine?
Patience is very much the word here. We would leave it until at least 2030, and ideally 2032-2035 for the full picture. Well-kept bottles will remain rewarding until 2045.
Is Clos de Vougeot actually worth the grand cru premium?
It depends almost entirely on who made it and where their vines sit within the 50-hectare clos. Drouhin-Laroze's upper-slope parcel is one of the better addresses in the vineyard, and in a year like 2023 they have made the most of it. So yes, in this case, we think so.
What food should I serve with this?
Classic Burgundian cooking is the natural match: coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, or a simple roast guinea fowl. The wine's savoury, earthy character also makes it a surprisingly good partner for aged hard cheeses if you are heading in that direction.
How should I serve it?
Uncork and decant for around 45 minutes before serving at 16-17°C. A large-bowled Burgundy glass will give the nose space to open up properly.
Is this a good wine to cellar?
Absolutely — this is precisely what it is built for. The structure is there, the site is serious, and the vintage has provided the fruit to back it up. If you have the space and the patience, put it away and revisit it in six to eight years.
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