Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Albert Bichot, 2023
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Albert Bichot, 2023
- Red Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.5%
- Organic
- Gamay, Pinot Noir
Passetoutgrain is Burgundy's most cheerfully democratic appellation — a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir that has been produced in the region for centuries, long before anyone got precious about keeping the two grapes apart. Albert Bichot, one of the Côte d'Or's most established négociants with roots going back to 1831, makes this as exactly what it's meant to be: an honest, fruit-forward red for drinking young, without ceremony or a long wait.
The 2023 vintage gave warm, generous conditions across Burgundy, and that shows here in the ripe, easy-going fruit. There's red cherry from the Gamay, a little Pinot Noir structure to keep things honest, and just enough earthy Burgundian character to remind you where it comes from. Chill it slightly, open it with friends, and don't overthink it.
- ❖ ABV: 13.5%
Grapes
Gamay, Pinot Noir
Vintage report
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceBright, medium ruby with a pink-tinged rim and good clarity.
NoseCheerful and open, leading with fresh red cherry and raspberry from the Gamay. There's a faint earthy, almost floral undertone — violets and damp soil — that gives it a distinctly Burgundian feel. Nothing demanding; just appealing and clean.
PalateLight to medium-bodied with gentle tannins and lively acidity — the Gamay doing the heavy lifting on texture and freshness. Flavours of red cherry, bramble, and a little dried cranberry, with the Pinot Noir adding just enough grip and length to stop it feeling flimsy. Very easy and very pleasurable.
FinishShort but clean, with a lingering red-fruit brightness and a faint mineral dryness.
Overall impressionExactly what a good Passetoutgrain should be — unpretentious, fresh, and genuinely fun to drink.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this sort of wine gets poured without much fuss alongside charcuterie boards — jambon persillé, rosette de Lyon, a slab of pâté de campagne. It's the kind of bottle that appears at a Sunday lunch table next to a simple roast chicken or a plate of œufs en meurette. Locals might also reach for it with a platter of regional cheeses like Époisses or Cîteaux, where the wine's lightness holds its own without overpowering. Think modest, convivial eating rather than elaborate cooking.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve this at around 13-14°C — slightly cooler than most reds, which brings out the Gamay's freshness and makes it genuinely refreshing. No need to decant; just open and pour. A standard Burgundy glass or even a tulip-shaped all-purpose glass works perfectly well here — you're not trying to coax out hidden complexity, just enjoy what's already there.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain draws from vineyards spread across the broader Burgundy appellation zone, which means soils vary considerably — limestone and clay dominate, with some sandier patches further from the Côte. The Gamay component often comes from slightly cooler, higher-altitude plots where the grape's natural freshness is preserved. The 2023 growing season was warm and dry across much of the region, producing ripe, plentiful fruit without the stress of a difficult harvest.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is a regional AOC covering the blending of Gamay and Pinot Noir within the broader Burgundy appellation. The rules require at least one-third Pinot Noir, though many producers lean more heavily on Gamay for its fruit and approachability. It sits firmly below village and premier cru Burgundy in prestige and price, but that's rather the point — it was never trying to compete with them. Think of it as Burgundy's house red: unpretentious, versatile, and genuinely enjoyable without demanding anything from you in return.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
FAQs
What does Bourgogne Passetoutgrain taste like?
It's a light, fruit-forward red with red cherry, bramble, and a gentle earthy quality that's distinctly Burgundian. The Gamay brings freshness and easy charm; the Pinot Noir adds just enough structure to keep it interesting. Think approachable, joyful drinking rather than anything serious.
What is Passetoutgrain, exactly?
Passetoutgrain is a traditional Burgundy appellation for wines blending Gamay and Pinot Noir — at least one-third of the latter by law. It's been made in Burgundy for centuries and is essentially the region's everyday red: unpretentious, versatile, and genuinely good value compared to village-level Burgundy.
When should I drink this wine?
Now, ideally. This is a wine designed for early drinking and the 2023 vintage's fruit is at its most vibrant right now. We'd drink it before 2028 to catch it at its best.
What food works well with this?
Charcuterie, roast chicken, simple bistro cooking, or a decent cheese board. It's versatile and easy-going — it won't fight with much. Slightly chilled, it's also surprisingly good on a warm afternoon with very little food at all.
Should I decant it?
No need. Just open and pour. Serve it a touch cooler than most reds — around 13-14°C — and it will be at its best.
Is Albert Bichot a reliable producer?
Yes, very much so. One of Burgundy's oldest family-owned négociant houses, founded in 1831, they produce wine at every level of the appellation hierarchy. At the Bourgogne level they are consistent and honest — this is a well-made, fairly priced wine for what it is.
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