Beaune Premier Cru 'Clos Des Mouches' Blanc, Domaine Du Pavillon, 2017
Beaune Premier Cru 'Clos Des Mouches' Blanc, Domaine Du Pavillon, 2017
- White Still
- 75.0cl
- 13.5%
- Chardonnay
Clos des Mouches is one of Beaune's most celebrated premier crus, sitting on the southern slope of the Côte de Beaune with a sun-drenched exposure that gives the white wine a richness most Beaune blancs simply cannot match. Domaine du Pavillon is Albert Bichot's estate label — wines made from their own-farmed vineyards rather than bought-in grapes — and this is very much the crown jewel of that range. The 2017 vintage in Burgundy was generous and ripe, with a warmth that fills out the mid-palate, while the site's chalky limestone soils keep things precise and focused rather than broad.
We find this drinking beautifully right now, with the oak fully integrated and a lovely tension between the wine's sunny, almost honeyed fruit and its mineral backbone. Toasted hazelnuts, white peach, lemon curd, and a saline, stony finish that lingers.
- ❖ ABV: 13.5%
Grapes
Chardonnay
Vintage report
The 2017 vintage in Burgundy arrived after a series of weather curveballs that kept growers on their toes from spring through harvest. April frosts dealt a brutal blow across the Côte d'Or, slashing yields by up to 60% in some villages, whilst those who escaped relatively unscathed found themselves with healthier vines and more concentrated fruit. The summer that followed was warm and dry, ripening what remained on the vine beautifully, and harvest began early in late August under ideal conditions.
What emerged from this challenging year surprises us still: wines of remarkable purity and focus, where the reduced yields translated directly into intensity without heaviness. The Pinot Noirs show beautiful red fruit clarity with firm but approachable tannins, whilst the Chardonnays display precision and mineral backbone that speaks clearly of their terroir. We find the whites drinking beautifully now and will continue to reward patience over the next decade, whilst the reds are starting to show their considerable charm and should peak between now and 2030.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep gold with a bright, slightly viscous rim — generous colour for a white Burgundy.
NoseRipe white peach, lemon curd, and toasted hazelnut lead, with a subtle undercurrent of beeswax and warm pastry. The 2017 vintage warmth is present but the oak sits well back — this is about the fruit and the site, not the barrel.
PalateFull without being heavy, with a lovely creamy texture that gives way to a stony, saline edge on the mid-palate. Acidity is ripe rather than piercing, keeping the wine fresh while allowing that generous, almost honeyed quality to shine. There's real length here, and a quiet authority that speaks to the quality of the site.
FinishLong and mineral, with a final lift of lemon zest and chalk dust that lingers well beyond the glass.
Overall impressionA white Burgundy that earns its reputation without making a fuss about it.
Food Pairings
In Beaune, this would land on the table alongside a poulet de Bresse roasted with tarragon and cream — the wine's richness and acidity are made for that kind of dish. The locals would also pour it with a gratin dauphinois or a slice of jambon persillé, the classic Burgundian terrine of ham and parsley in aspic. River fish feature heavily in the regional kitchen too: a truite meunière or pike quenelles with sauce Nantua would be superb. For a more relaxed occasion, a well-aged Époisses or Comté alongside a good baguette is really all you need.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at around 12-13°C — cold enough to preserve freshness, warm enough to let the texture open up. This wine doesn't need decanting, but give it 20 minutes in the glass before you commit to a verdict; it opens up considerably. A wide-bowled white Burgundy glass is ideal, giving the wine room to breathe and concentrate the aromatic detail.
Clos des Mouches sits on the southern end of the Beaune premier cru slope, with a southeast-facing exposure that captures maximum sunshine — unusual for Beaune, and decisive for the white wine's ripeness. The soils are predominantly Bathonian limestone with active chalk, giving the wines their characteristic mineral precision and capacity to age. The elevation is moderate, around 280 metres, which preserves freshness even in warmer years like 2017.
Beaune Premier Cru is one of Burgundy's most extensive premier cru appellations, with over 300 hectares across dozens of named lieux-dits. It sits between Pommard to the south and Savigny-lès-Beaune to the north, and while it lacks the single-vineyard celebrity of Chambolle or Gevrey, its best sites — Grèves, Bressandes, and Clos des Mouches — produce wines of genuine class. For white Burgundy specifically, Clos des Mouches is almost without rival at this level, regularly outperforming premier crus from more fashionable villages.
The 2017 vintage in Burgundy arrived after a series of weather curveballs that kept growers on their toes from spring through harvest. April frosts dealt a brutal blow across the Côte d'Or, slashing yields by up to 60% in some villages, whilst those who escaped relatively unscathed found themselves with healthier vines and more concentrated fruit. The summer that followed was warm and dry, ripening what remained on the vine beautifully, and harvest began early in late August under ideal conditions.
What emerged from this challenging year surprises us still: wines of remarkable purity and focus, where the reduced yields translated directly into intensity without heaviness. The Pinot Noirs show beautiful red fruit clarity with firm but approachable tannins, whilst the Chardonnays display precision and mineral backbone that speaks clearly of their terroir. We find the whites drinking beautifully now and will continue to reward patience over the next decade, whilst the reds are starting to show their considerable charm and should peak between now and 2030.
FAQs
What does Clos des Mouches Blanc taste like?
Rich, textured white Burgundy with ripe white peach, lemon curd, and toasted hazelnut, grounded by a stony, saline mineral finish. The 2017 vintage is generous and warm without tipping into heaviness.
When should I drink the 2017 vintage?
It's drinking very well right now and we'd be happy to open a bottle tonight. The sweet spot is probably 2026 to 2031, after which it will gradually settle and lose some of its expressive fruit. It should hold until 2034, but the 2017's warmth means it won't reward extended cellaring the way a cooler vintage might.
What food should I serve with this wine?
Roast chicken with cream and tarragon is the classic Burgundian match, but it's equally at home with river fish, a good jambon persillé, or aged Comté. Rich, cream-based dishes are the natural territory here.
How should I serve it?
At around 12-13°C — a touch warmer than a basic white Burgundy to allow the texture to open up. No need to decant, but give it 20 minutes in a wide-bowled glass before drinking.
Is Domaine du Pavillon the same as Albert Bichot?
Domaine du Pavillon is Albert Bichot's estate label, used only for wines produced from their own-farmed vineyards rather than sourced from other growers. It represents the top of their range and is where they focus their most careful viticulture and winemaking.
Is Clos des Mouches worth the price?
For a premier cru white Burgundy with this much site character and a producer of this reliability, we think yes. It sits in the upper tier of Beaune blanc and regularly competes with premier crus from more fashionable villages at significantly higher prices.
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